Shape of the orders Received from the market to produce the fabric

The order received to the weaving mill is in two different ways

1. Produce the fabric as per specification
2. Produce the fabric as per following sample.

Consider the following specification of a fabric:

• Warp yarn count * weft yarn count/ends per inch * picks per inch
36 * 30 / 76 * 68

• Width of the fabric = 50 inch
• Weave of the fabric = plain
• Length of fabric = 100,000 yard
• Waste allowance = 5 %

We have to find out:

• Warp contraction
• Total number of ends
• Tape length
• Total weight of warp yarn of 36s count
• Total weight of weft yarn of 30s count
• Total number of picks
• Reed space


Solution:

We have to find out the weight of warp yarn and weft yarn of the required length, so

Weight of warp yarn(in pound)/linear yard (length * width) =
Total number of ends * tape length / 840 * count of warp


So, First of all;
The total number of ends to be find out = Ends per inch * width of fabric
 76 * 50 = 3800
 3860 (adding selvedge ends on both sides)

Now tape length is to calculated which is equal to the sum of piece length and warp contraction, but

Warp contraction % = pick per ¼ inch * 12 / weft count
68/4 * 12 / 30 = 6.8 %

There fore;

Tape length = 1 + 6.8 % of 1 = 1.068yards

Adding value of tape length, total number of ends and count of warp in equation A
Weight of warp yarn in gram =
 3860 * 1.068 / 840 * 36 = 3930.24 / 30240
 0.1363 lb = 61.825grams


Total weight of warp yarn of 36s count for entire length
 61.825 * 100,000 = 6182500gram or 6182.500kgs
Adding waste allowance
 6182.500 + 5%of 6182.500
 6491.625kgs



Now weight of weft yarn in lb or gm per linear yard is to be calculated which is equal to

= Total number of picks * reed space / 36*840*weft count

First of all total number of picks
= Picks per inch * piece length
 68 * 36 = 2448

Now Reed space = space up to which the warp yarn are drawn and can be calculated by
= Width of fabric + weft contraction %
First weft contraction % is to be find out
= Ends per ¼ inch * 12 / warp count
 76/4*12/36 = 6.3 %
There fore;
Reed Space = 50 + 6.33% of 50
 53.15 inch
Use the value of total number of picks, reed space and weft count in eq, "B" and get the weight of weft yarn in lbs =
 2448 * 53.165/36*840*30 = 130147.92/907200
 .1434 lb = 65.045gram

Total weight of weft yarn of 30s count required for the entire fabric

 65.046 * 100,000=6504.6kg
Adding waste allowance
 6504.6 + 5 % of 6504.6
 6829.83kg
Now Full Specification of the fabric to be produced will be as follows
Width of the fabric 50 inch
Type of Weave Plain
Length of fabric 100,000 yards
Waste allowance 5 %
Weft contraction % 6.3 %
Warp contraction % 6.8 %
Reed Space 53.165 inch
Total weight of the Fabric 13322 kg
Weight of warp yarn 6491.625kgs ~~ 6492kg
Weight of weft yarn 6829.83kg ~~ 6830kg
Tape length 1.068yards

posted by MUNAWAR IQBAL ANJUM